dharma cafe

by Libby C. Weathers
Photography by Amy Spangler

Located in the warehouse district on the north side of downtown is a great little restaurant named the Dharma Café.  The 
atmosphere is reminiscent of cozy eateries in Greenwich Village and some of my favorite corners of the Bay Area, where one feels 
equally comfortable in attire a’ la the financial district as artisan’s working garb. The husband and wife team of John Gurney and 
Susan Ralph have created an establishment worthy of your visit.
Peeling back commercial-grade white linoleum to reveal the 
original brick walls in what was the Erie City Iron Works Building in the early1900’s marked their first step in the re-birth of 
character in the space.  The charming corner location seats about 30 at cherry stained tables and is fortunate to possess 
oversized windows filling the room with natural light even on the most overcast of days.
Chef Gurney describes his menu as contemporary European, 
“my code for whatever I like to create”.  He continues, “We’re committed to presenting foods that are unique and flavorful, yet 
at the same time not so far removed to be too challenging.  We try hard to maintain a range of foods both in style and price that 
range from simple to fairly elaborate.”
Lunch appetizers I tried were Crab Rangoon, a delicately fried and delightfully sweet wonton filled with cream cheese and a 
hint of crab that could also serve as a dessert, and the Ahi Tuna Sate, bamboo skewers of sushi grade tuna, toasted sesame 
seeds and a Sechzuan sauce. Although the presentation was lovely, the tuna fared a bit on the dry side and one of the skewers 
tasted a bit fishy. I’d give this dish a second chance, however.
On the cool, cloudy day I visited the Dharma Café, chicken 
noodle soup hit the spot.  Loving my Mom as I do, and her soups as I do, I must say Mr. Gurney has one up until she masters the 
notable texture of his hand made fettuccini noodles joyously sharing my cup with chunks of chicken and carrots.  Had I not 
been, “on assignment”, I’d have settled in to copious of amounts of this alone.  Served with four triangle cut slices of freshly baked 
foccacia, a hint of balsamic and a sprinkling of freshly shredded Parmesan.
One of the handful of blackboard specials of the day came to me next; Spinach salad with BBQ oysters, sliced red onion, tomato 
and a hot bacon dressing.  My plate arrived looking as though each spinach leaf was placed most thoughtfully, the tender 
oysters were some of the best looking mollusks I’ve seen and perfectly crisp bacon appeared crumbled lovingly atop. “What a 
find this place is!” I thought; and then the salmon arrived.
Bite after bite I found myself pondering, a more aptly prepared 
salmon, I cannot recall.  
This is big praise.  I grew up under the influence of my grandmother’s “particular” palate.  I was hugely fortunate to have 
been so spoiled as a young girl (our quest was for the perfect Coquille St. Jacques).  While the menu calls for sauce 
Béarnaise, it was missing from my plate and I consider this a good thing. The salmon was impossibly pink, beautiful, flavorful 
and poached to perfection.
The lunch menu offers seven salads, nine sandwiches, and a 
handful of entrees from $4-16.00.  The dinner menu has a broad offering up to $24.00. “One of my greatest fears is of a boring 
menu,” added Chef John. Confetti Salad of walnuts, mango and dried currants with crumbled blue cheese; Blueberry Chicken 
Breast with almonds and ricotta; and Shrimp with Garlic-Basil Mojo are creative items that will lure me back to sample.
Dessert menu selections revolve weekly, as do the flavors of gelato; Banana-pecan being the flavor du jour.  For those that 
know, there is no substitute for homemade ice cream, sorbet, etc.! Fresh, smooth, perfectly sweet and free on Fridays, too.
“The restaurant business is like a sailboat race; he who wins, wins by seconds.  I try to put out every dish as best I can”, 
remarked John. Rushing in and out may not give you the full experience of this eatery, however should you choose to linger, 
you’ll likely begin to experience the good karma at the Dharma.


Hours: 
Tuesday-Friday: 11:00am – 3:00pm and 6:00pm – 10:00pm
Saturday: 6:00pm – 10:00pm
Sunday Champagne Brunch: 10:00am – 2:00pm
Reservations recommended.
Take-out, Catering, Outdoor Patio, Beer & Wine.
1302 Nance Street. 713.222.6996. www.dharmacafehouston.com